Syros Island - The Capital of The Cyclades

The Cycladic island (Cyclades in Greek) are arguably the most famous of all the Greek Islands. This is the group of islands that make up the popular Santorini and Mykonos but also include some very trending popular islands like Paros, Anti-Paros, Milos, and Naxos. But of all these islands, is one that you don’t hear much about, at least not if you are American. The island of Syros, the Capital of the Cyclades. The most aristocratic of all the Greek Islands I’ve heard it called recently by a Greek travel industry professional, and I think I would have to agree. It is indeed aristocratic and grand. As soon as you pull into the port, you realize that you have stumbled upon an island rich in culture and history.

The majestic Town Hall of Ermoupoli (Syros Island)

I went to Syros island for the first time this summer when a Greek friend recommended the island to me. She said it was very cosmopolitan with amazing food and great culture. She said that you I wouldn't see many Americans there, mostly Europeans, and that the bustling main village was full of life, but then also the higher older town was where one could find quaint coffee shops along the cobblestone streets and narrow alleyways, a typical Greek Island experience. I fell in love with the island as soon as the ferry pulled up. I was in awe at how it stood out in a regal way showcasing all of the historic buildings clustered together and towering over the port.

Syros has quite the history. The ancient town of Ermoupoli (in the lower part of the island) was built by the Ionians and later settled by the Persians, Romans, Franks and Turks who all left their mark on the capital. It was the Venetians who played a major role in the development of the island making Syros an important trading hub for the Eastern Mediterranean. Frequent invasions of pirates forced the people of Syros to move the capital to the top of the hill where it is today, a medieval settlement of Ano Syros (upper Syros) with the famous church of St. George. Along came the Catholics in the 17th Century with the invasion of the French which has established the island as both Catholic and Greek Orthodox in religion.

After the Greek revolution of 1821, the island flourished when many emigrants from Psara, Chios, Crete and Asia Minor settled on the island in order to use it as the center of their trading and maritime culture. This caused an economic boom for the island and the wealthy families of Syros began to build many buildings, schools and theaters, including the famous Apollo theater. This prosperous period would last until the early 20th century and come to a sudden halt with the invasion of first the Italians in 1941 and then the Germans in 1943. Thousands of people died from starvation and diseases and the local economy was destroyed.

Slowly Syros rebuilt and is once again the cultural center of the Greek Islands. The streets are lined with incredible mansions, along with the unique architecture of the public buildings in Ermoupoli. The island at it’s core can be defined by its architecture, culture, tradition and it has amazing food as well!

When we visited Syros this summer there was a horrible heat wave in Greece. It was not an ideal time to visit an island that is so based on its historical center. I remember walking through the town at night and feeling so hot with very little air flow. I did love visiting the port and seeing all the exquisite yachts parked along the harbor. We mostly decided to stay out by the beaches due to the heat, and while there are several lovely beaches, Syros is not an island known for its beaches. They are not bad at all, but if we knew we would be on the beach most days, we would have picked another island like Milos and saved Syros for the autumn or spring when you can really enjoy the city without the heat.

Cuisine with a cosmopolitan flair - Ono Concept Beach Bar

Kini beach was a lovely day, although small and quiet we rented sun chairs and enjoyed lounging for the afternoon, followed by a drive to the hillside of Ermoupoli at an amazing taverna nestled in the hills where the food is so fresh and local. Vari beach was also lovely and where we chose to stay. Our cute little family run hotel “Syros Atlantic Hotel” is run by a family who spends half the year in Piraeus where they have a home and half the year running the hotel in Vari only 15 minutes from the main town of Ermoupoli. I really enjoyed our stay. It was very peaceful each morning and the breakfast was plentiful with many homemade options including cakes and sweets. We decided to splurge on a day at “Ono Concept” which had really amazing food with an international flair. Fun when you might want a break from Greek food. We were only in Syros for 4 nights, which was plenty of time to experience this small island.

I recommend staying near the beach if you would like a more relaxing holiday, and especially during the hot, summer months, but if you are visiting Syros for the cultural center, which it is most known for, the center is exquisite. For upscale accommodations, Castro hotel is one of the nicest hotels on the island, but otherwise there are plenty of small and quaint hotels. Wandering through the quaint and winding streets of Ano Syros is a must and stop for an afternoon coffee with the stunning views overlooking the town.

Syros is definitely worth a trip, and it is an easy combination with the island of Tinos if you are planning on island hopping.